Rockin’ Rock Climbing Commodities
Momentum Climbing Harness: http://amzn.to/1iN4Caq
La Sportiva Tarantulace Men’s Climbing Shoe: http://amzn.to/1FL2Qvz
La Sportiva Tarantulace Women’s Climbing Shoe: http://amzn.to/1UTo5SH
Half Dome Climbing Helmet: http://amzn.to/1QfLxZ8
Chalk Bag with Belt and Zippered Pocket: http://amzn.to/1OtW84a
REVERSO 4 Belay Device: http://amzn.to/1F170Vi
Watch more How to Rock Climb videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/512697-5-Tips-for-Lead-Climbing-Rock-Climbing
So right now, I'm going to do some lead climbing. I'm tied in as a climber, Chaz is clipped in here is the belayer, we've already done our safety checks, I'm ready to start, and while I'm climbing, I'm going to give you five tips for how to lead climb, and how to do so effectively and efficiently.
One good tip is before you start climbing, to take some time and really try to identify the route. What I mean by that is to try to look for critical spots on the route where maybe you'll get a good rest or maybe some difficult cliffs. You'll notice another tip is that when you're clipping, you want to be doing so from a balanced position with a straight arm. Having these straight arms to make those cliffs is a great way to conserve energy.
As I move up a little farther, you'll notice my arm still stays straight clipping. I'm making that clip with a straight arm, and at this point, I'm pretty comfortable, I've good footholds, and I'm on a big jump hold, so I can shake out my arms a little bit to try to get some of that lactic acid out of there. I'll do the same with my other arm. This type of move, shaking out, can really help you to recover while you're climbing.
Another pointer is when to chalk up. So right now if I'm moving into a difficult sequence, I might want to chalk up before I go through it, so timing your chalk ups, when to do it, how often to do it, is something you want to consider.
So, on a similar note, while timing your chalking up, to make sure you're not doing it excessively, but just kind of as needed, a good idea is to try to identify a crux of the route, which is the most difficult section, or where you expect to have the most trouble, and rather than stopping in the middle to chalk up, or maybe try to make a clip from an awkward position, try to push through that crux, identify the sequence, chalk, prepare yourself, get a good rest and shake out, and move straight through that crux
Another tip would be that while I'm climbing, if I'm so scared of falling the whole time, it's going to make me over grip, which means squeezing a lot harder than I need to be, and putting a lot of weight on my arm that doesn't need to be there.
I want to keep it on my feet. So a great tip for lead climbing, is to get comfortable falling. You're going to climb a whole lot better if you're not scared to fall. It'll also make it a lot easier to commit to some of those bigger moves. So those are some tips that are really good for lead climbing to help you move efficiently and effectively.
A bit disappointed you didn't mention not to have your feet or a heel behind the rope between the clips that you've already passed. This is an easy thing to do if you've not been informed of the danger. If you fall, your foot will be stuck and you'll be turned upside down, risking to bang the back of your head into the wall.
That happened to my friend he was 40 feet in the air and it happened and his head started bleeding, so a climber who was parallel to him took off his shirt and wrapped it around his head to stop it. He had to go to the hospital 0.0
I think you clip a little high in the video. Just going lead climbing course and was learned to clip around the hip. If you clips this high 3dm 1foot above your harness, if you miss you'll fall this extra compared to if you have climbed a little higher. 3dm up and then 3dm down to your harness compared to just 3dm up otherwise. it's probably 1m 3feet closer to the ground or your belayer du to rope stretch and extra slack. Sure, sometimes you don't have a good grip with the quickdraw in hip hight, but if you have.
@Roland abc The reason for shaking out is to get oxygenated blood back into the arms. You can use any movement of the arms and hands when they are hanging down. Post a link to the study your talking about.
No, it has not, rather the opposite. The study you refer to is beyond flawed. It is astonishing that they conclude that compared with untrained subjects, the performance of trained climbers is more dependent on blood flow (i.e. blood flow correlates highly with performance among climbers), but they do not even consider how the positioning of the arm correlates with blood flow. And yet, they conclude that "shaking out" has no effect on climbing performance, and that there is no need for climbers to find good positions for doing this while on a route. In the study, the subjects performed gripping while hanging their arms vertically down; a position climbers never use in real climbing. The reason you get pumped while climbing is because you hold your arms above your head a long time and use oxygen in your arms while doing so. The reason why "shaking out" works (you don't need a scientific study to show this, it is enough just trying it yourself - the performance difference is huge and very much significant) is that lowering your arm will increase the blood flow temporarily in your arm. One experiment you can try yourself if you do not believe this is to hold your arms above your head for five minutes or so. After a while you will notice that you have exactly the same feeling of pump as you normally have on the climbing wall - without even holding a single hold.
Holding your hands up in the air prevents blood flow not too differently from how using a blood pressure cuff does (as was done in the study to show that blood flow affects performance), i.e. the experiments in the study support the exact opposite conclusion than the one the authors made.
+Amylxb its been a while since I've been lead climbing, but I would always climb with my buddy. We improved immensely over a couple months by just doing some of the simple training exercises that howcast provides.
We got up to a 5.12a onsight level or a V7-V8 bouldering level. It was mainly bouldering that helped us improve.
Good video! I can do up to V5's in bouldering, and strong for my weight, but I'm fairly new to lead climbing. Nothing he said in this video is really groundbreaking or new to most people, but he definitely had a few good pointers for me to think about and remember. Specifically, to really get comfortable falling, and to chalk up right before the crux.
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